L'hotel Sobo-Bade vol.1
I was leaving from Pompiers Bus Terminal by bush taxi. By the way, what
kind of facility do you image on the word of "bus terminal"?
It must have terminal buildings. And maybe big buses stop there and wait
the people on board. I imaged something like that for the "bus terminal"
Because in all countries which I'd ever visited, a bus terminal had been
like that.
However the bus terminal in this country was not like that. I knew the
fact when I checked the location of Pompier in advance. The main bus terminal
of Senegal, capital city and one of the biggest city in West Africa, was
something like .... like .... a grassy vacant lot.
Well certainly, the space was wide enough. But no terminal building was
there. Many placards were placed here and there in the space. Each placard
described each destination. And beside the placards was not beautiful mascot
girl but very aggressive taxi operator. And of course, there were hundreds
of bush taxies. I also found busses. However it's absolutely far from my
image to a bus. They customized pick up truck and put benches on the deck
and covered it with simple canopy. Now they got "bus".
I was waiting for departure in the bush taxi. Silence ... no body talked
and Just waited the departure. The vendor stuck his nose in the slit of
slightly opened window and offered variety of goods, orange, banana, juice
in plastic bag, peanut, bread, boiled egg, watch, deck brush ... Then another
boy came for begging. I remembered this country never let me alone.
Generally, a bush taxi was 7 seater. It never departed until being full.
And usually it's over loaded when it departed. The taxi that I rode was
not exception. It had 8 passengers. Add to that, I was on the 2nd row seat.
I was pressed on the door by gigantic hip of the woman next to me. "Gosh,
it's too dangerous" It could be easily happen that the door was flipped
off. So I grasped grip on the side sill and supported all the weight of
the woman with shaking arm. Of course it's for avoiding make me pushed
out from the car with the door.
Once the taxi left from the city, it's speeding up. It's a madness of speed.
(But I know it later that it's relatively safer driving in Senegal) On
the long straight, the driver often tries passing. It's very hard to pass
for the old car. So it took too much time. The heading car on the opposite
lane is quickly reducing distance. When we are almost clashing, the bush
taxi has done the passing. "Hue ... "
However the driver isn't just speeding madness. He knows the route very
well. When the taxi comes to the poor tarmac area, he gets off the beaten
truck. The taxi gets into the road side bush. He drives on the sandy road
under the baobab trees. The driving looked like Safari Rally. The tail
of the car drifts right and left widely. And the driver makes a beautiful
counter steering for each tail slide. But even in the situation, the woman
next to me isn't so surprised. She puts a toothpick on her mouth and fully
weights on me on the corner. The old man behind me even takes a nap. Is
it a normal for them? The taxi runs on the land fill, then in somebody's
yard. We go through beside the tree in the play ground of elementary school
and get big applauds of the pupils.
"By the way, are we going to right direction?" When I wonder
it, the taxi comes out from bush on the road side to tarmac. We must be
back to the main route.
"Here is the place you get off" After an hour and half drive,
the driver and other passenger tell me. It sounds like transfer point to
my destination, Toubab Dialao. "We are going on this main route. So
get another taxi here" Huge baobab tree is there and the road is separated
beside it. It looks so typical branch of the road. However ... I thought
it's not so easy to find another car. Because there is no car to my direction.
11a.m. The bright sun of Africa is almost top of the sky and over exposed
the scenery. I stands up blankly in the shade of the baobab tree. When
I look back, I see a woman vending fruits. Our eyes meet. She grins. It
makes me buying an orange.
However, what a rational country Senegal is! Shortly after, a car is passing
by and pick me up. It's good timing indeed as if everything is written
on the script. (Although it's not free ride.) Maybe they know the fact
that they can get the customer with passing by the baobab point around
11 o'clock. But it doesn't matter to me at all whether the car passes by
on purpose or accidentally. It's enough for me I find a car going for right
direction.
The road condition is always poor. Basically the road is straight. However
it's covered by hundreds of pit holes. So the driver swings the car right
and left. He concentrated on the tarmac too much. So we are almost hitting
the opposite car. I wanna drive by myself if it's possible.
The road gets into the hill top area. Some how the driver often tells me
"Why not buy some house around here?" He goes on. "Italian,
French ... lot of foreigner got houses here. It's cheap" Well, but
house is expensive shopping compare to the orange of street vendor. (But
I should had to ask for the exact price. How much was it that he meant
"Cheap"? $10,000? No, it must not be.) For getting to Toubab
Dialao, we pass 3 small villages. All villas was placed on the top of hill,
looks comfortable and has grate ocean view. Looks not bad to live as the
driver said.
On the tip of small cliff, the road is getting narrow and narrow. Finally
the sandy alley is ended at a hotel. When I'm getting off, the driver asks
me about my schedule from later on. I suppose he wanna pick me up for return
trip too. "Tomorrow, after tomorrow or two days after tomorrow. In
the morning or in the evening. I dunno" I say. I must get tired for
his persistent question. But more than that, I don't like tighten up by
schedule. It's my nature.
Today's piece
" Traffic jam " Dakar , Senegal 2002
Blondy |